Michael Van Der Ham - another bright spark flies out of Central Saint Martin’s
Judging by the packed venue on Monday afternoon, Michael Van Der Ham has graduated from being the whispered word on fashion insider’s lips to a full-blown sensation. Either that or the Topshop venue’s collaboration with Bistrotheque, meaning that every hungry fashionista can expect a slap-up meal in a paper cup ensured a full front row. Taking inspiration from 1930’s home knits and abstract and marbled prints, Van der Ham showed an eclectic mix of organza draped dressed, boucle jumpers and jacquard separates. The archetypal Van der Ham look of pieced-together, jigsaw-like pieces chimed through the collection, with mixed swatches of fabric and colour. A cool palette of light blues and metallic silvers, with a good splash of sparkle and sequins rubbed shoulders with day dresses of coral and rust. The added fairy dusting of intricate details like crushed organza and pleating made for another stellar collection from the Central St Martin’s alumnus. What do they put in the water there? Daniela Morosini

Matthew Williamson’s AW12 show was a glossy, glittery, gorgeous affair. 

Having achieved the coup de theatre last season of a Turbine Hall show at the Tate (and infuriating every other major designer in the process) Williamson showcased a modern, metallic show in the beautiful glassy hall of the Royal Opera House. That rather set the tone- refined, but twinkly and a bit exciting. The show opened with an exceedingly lavish, absolutely fabulous candy coloured fur coat that was mentioned wistfully by almost every fashion editor we spoke to the following morning- knowing full well it’s likely to carry a pricetag the size of a Notting Hill house by the time it goes into production.

The collection was choc full of the kind of cocktail dresses Matthew Williamson made his name with, but they’ve moved on from the formula of strapless and jewelled/ wafty and maxi with some lovely Christopher Kane style cutwork and folding. It also featured beautiful sheer blouses teamed with embellished pencil skirts, or slinky polo necks layered with shell tops and worn with shimmering gold trousers. It all had just the right measure of Matthew- with chunky jewelled necklaces and rich colour combinations to remind us the King of boho was still behind the steering wheel, but in a much more grown up, less peacocky new guise. Lovely.